Nov. 23 – Beijing

Four minutes without it and you die. I’m not referring to internet access but oxygen. You may have noticed that I’ve mentioned air quality in most of my posts from China. I’m particularly sensitive to the breathability for a few reasons; I’m from Vancouver, which has among the best urban air in the world. I’m into endurance sports, and use a lot of the stuff. And I have been asthmatic in the past. So the topic has preoccupied me in much the same way ocean waves did on the Pacific – it makes a big difference to how my day is going to go.

Consecutive mornings. The vantage points aren't identical, but you get the idea.

Today was great, air-wise. Overnight, strong winds blew away all of the smog that had been hanging over Beijing. Visually, the impact is astonishing. From the flat, the view is a mountain range rather than the gloom-shrouded apartment complexes nearby (which the Chinese call tower forests). And I’m breathing easy in the literal sense. Fortunately for me, it may take a while for the pollution to build up again, and in any case I can leave if it gets really bad.  Few Chinese have the luxury of making such a choice. Many go around wearing surgical masks, and on the really bad days it means kids simply don’t get to play outside at recess. How long it will be before the authorities get serious about air quality is anyone’s guess.

Since we’re on the topic of noxious substances, let’s talk about tobacco and alcohol. Smoking is rather prevalent in China. Although some people would rather that others butt out, it appears that frowning upon is frowned upon. As for the booze, I’ve finished my first bottle of Baijiu tonight. It’s a wheat-based abomination of 56% alcohol that is great for getting you drunk/thinning paint. Many Chinese drink this without moderation to celebrate festive occasions.     I’ve only had a little with each evening meal since I’ve arrived (mixed to tolerable level with fruit juice). And in any case I need to practice for the long vodka sessions on Russian trains.